Andrea's Vietnamese-Style Rice Noodle Bowls
This is an easily adaptable Vietnamese-style rice noodle salad bowl from Andrea Nguyen, a Vietnamese-born, American teacher, food writer and cookbook author. Think of it as a deconstructed spring roll in the form of a salad.. Reading through the steps below may come across as daunting but there’s several recipes here and you can choose your own adventure. The pickles are optional but a batch can add a vinegary punch to your other dishes, they’re also great for snacking. The Nuoc Cham serves as the dressing and main flavoring agent and I suppose you can substitute another dressing but you’d lose the spirit of the dish and I can’t vouch for the results (in other words, don’t skip it). Grilled pork is the protein but that is entirely optional. Tofu or Chicken be substituted or skip the cooking altogether and use store-bought poached shrimp or rotisserie chicken. Finally, choose whatever salad veggies and lettuce mix you like but definitely splurge on the fresh. mint, it adds a bright freshness that really makes this dish.
ANY DAY VIET PICKLE (optional):
8-12 small radishes or 1 daikon radish, about 1 lb. (sliced into coins or matchsticks)
1 carrot, about 6 oz. (185 g) (sliced into matchsticks)
1 tsp. fine sea salt
1/2 cup plus 2 tsp. sugar, divided
1¼ cups distilled white vinegar
PREPARATION
In a medium bowl, add the daikon, radishes and carrots; toss with the salt and 2 teaspoons of sugar. Set aside so the veggies can lose some of their water, about 20 minutes. Rinse the vegetables well with cold water, then drain, squeezing to expel any excess liquid. Transfer the vegetables to a quart jar.
In a medium bowl, stir the remaining 1/2 cup sugar with the vinegar and 1 cup of water until the sugar is dissolved. Pour enough of the liquid into the jar to completely cover the vegetables, discarding any excess. Set aside the jar at room temperature for 1 hour, then use the pickles immediately, or cover and refrigerate for up to 1 month.
GRILLED PORK (OR SUBSTITUTE FIRM TOFU or CHICKEN)
3 garlic cloves
1/2 cup (2 oz./60 g) coarsely chopped shallots or yellow onion
1/4 tsp. plus 1/8 tsp. freshly ground pepper
1/2 tsp. Chinese five-spice powder
1 1/2 Tbs. granulated sugar, or 2 Tbs. packed light brown sugar
1/2 tsp. molasses or honey
1 1/2 Tbs. fish sauce
1 tsp. soy sauce
1 1/2 Tbs. canola or other neutral oil, plus more for grilling
1 1/4 lb. (625 g) boneless pork shoulder or boneless country-style pork ribs
Vegetable oil for brushing
PREPARATION
To make the grilled pork, first make the marinade: In a small food processor, combine the garlic, shallot, pepper, five-spice powder, sugar, molasses, fish sauce, soy sauce and canola oil, then whirl into a slightly coarse, liquid-y marinade. (Or, using a mortar and pestle, pound the garlic, shallot and sugar together, then and mix in the other ingredients.) Transfer the marinade to a large bowl.
Cut the pork across the grain into strips about 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide, 3 inches (7.5 cm) long and a scant 1/4 inch (6 mm) thick. Add the pork to the marinade and massage to coat well. Thread the meat onto the skewers, covering most of each skewer. Give each loaded skewer a gentle squeeze to ensure that the meat hugs the skewer. Set on a plate, cover and set aside to marinate at room temperature for 30 to 60 minutes.
Lightly brush the pork with oil. Lightly oil a cast-iron stove-top grill pan and set over medium-high heat. Alternatively, prepare a medium-hot fire in a grill.
Grill the pork, turning the skewers and brushing with oil frequently, until the meat is slightly charred and cooked through, 8 to 12 minutes. Nick a piece of the pork with the point of a knife to check for doneness. Divide the meat among the bowls, either leaving it on the skewers or sliding it off.
If you’re using tofu, I place the tofu on a sheet pan and roast in a 425 degree oven for 20-25 minutes until golden brown but not dried out. You can also sear the tofu in hot skillet on your stovetop.
NUOC CHAM
2 to 2 1/2 Tbs. sugar
3 to 4 Tbs. fresh lime juice
1/2 cup (4 fl. oz./125 ml) warm water, or as needed
2 tsp. unseasoned Japanese rice vinegar (if needed)
3 to 4 Tbs. fish sauce
1 or 2 Thai or serrano chiles, thinly sliced and with seeds kept intact, or 2 to 3 tsp. chile garlic
sauce or sambal oelek (optional)
1 large garlic clove, minced (optional)
1/2 small carrot, cut into thin matchsticks or coarsely grated (optional)
PREPARATION
In a small bowl, combine 2 Tbs. of the sugar, 3 Tbs. of the lime juice and the water. Taste and, if needed, add the remaining sugar or lime juice if needed; dilute with water if you go too far. If there’s an unpleasant tart-bitter edge to the mixture, add the vinegar to adjust the flavor. Add the fish sauce to the bowl; how much you will need depends on the brand and your own taste. Aim for a bold, forward finish that’s a little gutsy. (Keep in mind that this sauce will dress unsalted ingredients such as lettuce and herbs, which will need an extra flavor lift.) If desired, add the chiles, garlic and/or carrot. (You can also offer the chiles on the side if some diners are sensitive to them.) The sauce can be made up to 8 hours before serving and stored, covered, at room temperature.
ASSEMBLY (MAKES 4 SERVINGS)
1 package (6 to 8 oz./185 to 250 g) thin vermicelli rice noodles, cooked and prepared according to package instructions. I used pad thai noodles, it’s what my grocery store had in stock.
2/3 cup (4 oz./125 g) unsalted roasted peanuts or cashew pieces, coarsely chopped if large
4 cups lettuce mix such as butter lettuce, Boston Bibb or romaine
Sliced and julienned veggies of your choice: cucumbers, carrots, bean sprouts, red onions, red peppers, etc.
1/2 cup hand-torn fresh mint, basil or cilantro leaves, or a combination.
Place a portion of each ingredient into a bowl, add your protein, pickles, dress with the Nuoc Cham, toss to combine. Enjoy!
RECIPE NOTES FROM ANDREA NGUYEN
“Like banh mi sandwiches, southern Viet rice noodle salad bowls are adaptable and great for healthful, impromptu meals. Often categorized at restaurants as rice vermicelli bowls or bun (the name of the noodles), they're built according to this blueprint: A large bowl filled with ribbons of lettuce and a thin, crunchy vegetable for texture; fresh herbs for pungency; and slippery rice noodles to convey flavors. You get to choose the toppings, which are inevitably garnished with roasted peanuts. A fancy bowl often has pickled radish and carrot for color and crunch, plus fried shallots for extra richness. You dress the bowl with nuoc cham dipping sauce, toss it with chopsticks (or a fork) and spoon and then dive in.”