Pasta Con Fagiole
INGREDIENTS (SERVES 3-4)
4 oz sturdy short pasta such as penne, campanelle, cavatappi or fusilli
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more to serve
1 pint grape or cherry tomatoes
1 cup diced red onion
1/2 large fennel bulb, halved, cored and thinly sliced
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon fresh thyme
1 teaspoon fresh oregano
1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes (or more if you like spicy)
1 15½-ounce can Romano (AKA borlotti or cranberry beans) or Kidney beans
1 cup low-sodium chicken broth
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest, plus 2 tablespoons lemon juice
Grated pecorino or parmesan cheese
PREPARATION
In a large Dutch cook pasta until just shy of al dente. Reserve 1 cup of cooking water, then drain and rinse with cold water until cool; set aside. It’s important to not overcook the pasta otherwise it will become mushy in your soup.
Wipe out the pot and return it medium-high. Heat 3 tablespoons of oil until barely smoking. Add the tomatoes, then cover, reduce to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly charred and have burst, about 5 minutes.
Stir in the onion, sliced fennel and 1/2 teaspoon salt, then cook on medium-high, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables begin to soften, about 5 minutes.
Add the garlic, fresh herbs, fennel seeds and pepper flakes, then cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
Stir in the beans (along with the liquid), broth and 1/4 cup of the reserved cooking water. Bring to a simmer over medium-high. Cover, reduce to medium and cook, stirring once or twice, until the vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes.
Add the pasta and cook, stirring frequently, until the pasta is al dente and the sauce is creamy, 3 to 5 minutes.
If needed, add the remaining reserved cooking water 1 tablespoon at a time to reach the proper consistency.
Off heat, stir in the lemon zest and juice. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Serve with the cheese and additional olive oil for drizzling.
RECIPE NOTES
My friend Nina’s dad claimed he could tell if you were a good cook or not by your pasta fazool. It wasn’t until I had moved to Chicago and became better acquainted with Italian cuisine that I had learned the correct pronunciation was actually Pasta con Fagiole. The Fazool was based on the Italian word for beans. There are many ways to make Pasta con Fagiole but despite its rustic simplicity, it should be hearty and satisfying. Hopefully, Nina’s dad would approve of this version lightened up with lemon zest, cherry tomatoes and fennel. The fennel bulb contributes a sweet licorice flavor and the cherry tomatoes provides a refreshing tart contrast against the creaminess of the beans. It’s important to not overcook your pasta, otherwise you’ll have a gloopy mush. Nina’s dad was right, the simpler the ingredients, the harder it is to hide your errors in the kitchen. If the pasta does absorb too much liquid and you find yourself short on broth, just add more stock. And, definitely don’t skip the glug of EVOO at the end, it adds a flavorful richness to the soup. If you don’t have thyme or oregano, rosemary also works well and dried herbs (reduce to 1/2 teaspoon each) can also be substituted. You can also double this recipe. A simple green salad completes the meal.
WINE PAIRING
Bright, acid white wine from Sicily such as Grillo or Inzolia
Rose
Light-bodied slightly chilled red such as Frappato or Nero d’Avola from Sicily