The 10-Step Korean Skincare Routine

Photo on the left was taken in August of 2019 and the one on the right was taken in February 2020, two months after I started the routine.

They say youth is wasted on the young and I took my naturally plump-looking skin for granted until I turned 40. Desperate to recapture it, I adopted the 10-Step Korean Skincare method about two months ago and it has done wonders for my skin. Even my dermatologist, who takes photos of my face for each visit, noticed a huge difference. My skin is noticeably more clear and even-toned and I’m using less foundation to cover up what used to be dark spots. Each step prepares and primes the skin to more efficiently absorb serums, essences and moisturizers while being as delicate as possible. This 10-step regimen has been hailed as the reason why so many Korean women have such gorgeously flawless skin. The goal of the routine is to get an effect known as glass skin — skin so radiant and hydrated that it resembles a porcelain doll. The routine is a commitment however, taking about 20 minutes at night and 10 minutes in the morning, but it’s worth it. I’ve actually become quite fond of the routine and will play a YouTube video or listen to a Podcast as I practice some self-care.

I’ve broken down the 10-step routine and provide an explanation and reason for each step. Skincare products can be very subjective and what works for one person may not work for another. I have extremely dry skin and products that contain alcohol cause me to break out. You know what works for your skin and you may need to adapt accordingly. And as always, when it doubt, consult your doctor before starting a new routine. I am clearly not a dermatologist and the advice provided here is not meant to replace professional medical expertise.

STEP 1: Oil-Based Cleanser

A key hallmark of the Korean Skincare Method is the 2 step or double cleansing method: oil-based cleanser to melt and remove makeup. sebum and sunscreen followed by a water-based cleanser to finish the job. There are many oil-based cleansers on the market from liquid to paste but they are all meant to be used on dry skin without water. Rub it gently to remove eye makeup and foundation and once you feel you’ve loosened it all off, add water to emulsify the oil and prep the skin for the water-based cleanser.

Recommended Oil Cleansers

STEP 2: Water-Based Cleanser

After you have oil-cleansed, use a more traditional cleanser to remove anything left behind. You can use either a foam or cream cleanser but you may need to experiment until you find one that works best for your skin.

Cleansers that work for my skin:

STEP 3: Exfoliator or Face Scrub

I use a gentle exfoliator about twice a week, anything more is too harsh. This step removes dead skin cells and unclogs pores which can block product absorption. It also helps keep your skin looking smooth and radiant. Look for an exfoliator that is gentle and does not contain any crushed apricot or walnut shells, which can cause microscopic tears and exacerbate conditions like rosacea. You can also use an enzyme-based exfoliator as opposed to a bead-based scrub.

STEP 4: Skin Toner

If you’re not using an exfoliator, skip to this step after the water-based cleanser. K-Beauty toners are very different from American-style ones that contain alcohol. The toner is used to reset and balance the pH level in your skin after the cleansers. It’s very gentle and shouldn’t leave your face feeling stretched or tight. Read the label and ensure they don’t contain any alcohol or alcohol-based ingredients. I use Thayer’s Witch Hazel Rose Petal Toner, it’s inexpensive and it gets the job done.

Recommended Toners

STEP 5: ESSENCE!!!

This is the most important step in the K-Skincare Routine. Essence lays the foundation for the skin to absorb anything that comes after it. Think about when it rains in the desert, the dry soil cannot absorb the water and it runs off. Wet soil absorbs water more easily than dry soil. This is the same idea behind essence, it primes the skin with moisture so it can allow all the goodness of serums, moisturizers, face masks and facial oils to seep in.

STEP 6: Serums and Ampoules

Next to moisturizer, this is the most subjective step in the routine as your choice of serum will depend on your individual needs and the condition of your skin. You can really go crazy here and it can also get very expensive. I use a variety of serums depending on what my skin needs at the moment. An Ampoule is a super-concentrated version of a serum that can be used to address specific concerns like dark spots, redness or acne. I use Kypris Antioxidant Dew and Dr. Jart Ceramidin Liquid.

STEP 7: Sheet Mask Time

This is probably the step that most people associate with the K-Beauty routine. Your choices are endless here but IMHO, the Dr. Jart face masks are the absolute best. I would also recommend getting a silicone cover to hold your mask in place and it also helps with product absorption.

STEP 8: Eye Cream

This is another subjective choice but eye cream is extremely important and a little goes a long way. I also dab a little eye cream on my laugh lines, better than wiping the excess on a towel. My dermatologist recommends choosing an eye cream with retinol as it is the only ingredient proven to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

STEP 9: Moisturizer

This step is pretty self-explanatory. Find a moisturizer that works for you, there are a plethora of choices on the market in a range of styles and price points to address your individual needs. Once again, I’m loyal to Dr. Jart as it works for my super-dry skin.

STEP 10: Sunscreen/Night Mask or Facial Oil

During the day, I will use sunscreen and at night I’ll either stop at the moisturizer but if I’m feeling extra dry, I will use a facial oil. I was told to not use facial oil on your skin before moisturizer as it will prevent the latter from seeping in, oil always goes last. You can also add a drop of oil to your foundation for easier blending. Once in a while, I will use a sleeping mask like Glow Recipe Watermelon or whatever needs to be used up from my Boxy Charm subscription.

DAY VS. NIGHT

In the morning, I skip the oil-based cleanser and use only the water-based one. I then proceed to the toner, essence, serum, moisturizer and finish with sunscreen. Once you get the hang of it, the routine goes pretty quickly.

HOW MUCH PRODUCT TO USE

It drives me crazy when I see Instagram influencers dumping tons of product on their faces — many of these products are expensive but you don’t need to use much. Here is a good visual for how much product you should use.

WHERE TO PURCHASE

Unfortunately, there are a lot of counterfeit products out there (I’m looking at you eBay and Amazon) so make sure you buy your products from a trusted source with a favorable return policy. A few of these products can be found at your local drugstore but the luxury items can be found at Sephora or Ulta Beauty. Costco also features a decent K-Beauty selection. Other good sources are online K-Beauty retailers like Soko Glam or Choc Choc Cosmetics (they have a brick and mortar store in Chicago located at 614 W Belmont Avenue).

HOW MUCH TO SPEND

Please don’t feel like you have to drop hundreds of dollars to get good results. I rarely buy anything over $50 (the Kypris serum, at $98, is the priciest item listed here and I got that from my Boxy Charm subscription). The combined total of all the products I use is about $240 which lasts me about 3-4 months, remember a little goes a long way. It’s not what you use, it’s how you use it and the most important rule for success is to be consistent.